Pacific Restaurant

500 Post St., San Francisco

Hidden on the third floor of the JW Marriott, Pacific Restaurant boasts a subtle, but refined atmosphere, a great chef in Michael Otsuka, and (nearly) excellent service. But there’s nothing subtle about the food, which was both large in quantity and taste. The rack of lamb lived up to expectations—cooked to perfection and served in generous portions; it was, however, accompanied by a rather bland assortment of potatoes and legumes. The duck breast with eggplant was a surprisingly harmonious combination, exceeding expectations and exposing Otsuka for his Japanese influences. But it was the lobster risotto with mascarpone cheese that ultimately stole the show—a bountiful landscape of creamy, rich goodness peppered generously with the star of this culinary cabaret: the masterfully prepared lobster.

Its rich food, generous portions and attentive service keep Pacific Restaurant on my short-list of fancy restaurants; but the price tag, bland decor and somewhat unusual choice of music (a la Britney Spears and, yes, the Backstreet Boys) make me think of a few other local restaurants before taking the elevator ride up.

Rating:
**** "Oh that's freakin' Smurf"