Chili's Grill & Bar

300 W. Calaveras Blvd., Milpitas



Just like any bar and grill should be, this particular location of the now-famous Chili’s restaurant chain was crowded, loud and redolent of the southwestern flavors within. The list of appetizers is as famous here as are the baby-back ribs (of TV commercial fame). The Awesome Blossom fried onion was expertly battered for a flaky finish and was paired with a fantastic seasoned dipping sauce. But it was the Boneless Buffalo Wings that stole the opening credits. Breaded and tossed in a tangy wing sauce, the bonelessness of these wings makes all the difference. Served with a mild bleu cheese dressing, this appetizer is a must-have.

Shopping for entrees in what seemed like the world’s largest menu was quite an undertaking. Surprisingly though, vegetarian options are kept to a minimum, forcing herbivores to choose between portabella mushrooms and black beans. But just as large as the menu are the portions. Served alongside a behemoth ration of beans, rice and vegetables, the Margarita Grilled Chicken impressed with its taste (subtly citric) and its size. Even larger was the mountain of grilled steak, shrimp, vegetables and onions that came with the fajitas. While the steak was perfectly grilled, and the sizzling garlic and lime shrimp were exquisite, the host of condiments that accompanied this dish (sour cream, guacamole, lettuce, cheese, tomatoes) was disappointingly sparse, bland and overall unsatisfying. Then there were the baby back ribs. This renowned diva of television fame—double-basted with barbeque sauce, and served with cinnamon apples and mashed potatoes—was, frankly, very average. Neither was the barbeque sauce (half ketchup, half steak sauce) especially flavorful, nor were the ribs jaw-droppingly prepared. But stick to the grill. The battered and fried Chicken Crispers looked more like fish and chips for the hydrophobic, though they were served with a welcome combination of homestyle fries and corn on the cob.

Even though Chili’s is able to deliver its patrons a flavorful experience, that delivery is dawdling and, at times, frustrating. While our waiter was friendly and earnest, he seemed to be serving a multitude of tables in several different parts of the restaurant, making him hard to come across. Unfortunately, the other servers also seemed overstrung and aloof, while one woman was downright unhelpful. The prices were very reasonable, delivering quite the bang for your buck.

Overall, Chili’s serves up a satisfying southwest grill experience.

Rating:

*** "Par for the course"